climbing Oct 26, 2024

Edging Rock Climbing

what is edging in climbing

Edging in Rock Climbing: Mastering the Art of Footwork

Rock climbing is an exciting and physically demanding sport that requires both strength and technique. When tackling a challenging route, climbers often use various techniques to navigate the rock face and reach the top. One of these techniques is edging, which is an essential skill that allows climbers to place their feet on small footholds and maintain precise footwork while ascending.

What is Edging?

Edging, also known as smearing, refers to using the inside edges of the climbing shoes to push against small footholds on the rock face. It is an intricate footwork technique that requires climbers to shift their body weight and maintain balance while standing on small and often sloping footholds. Unlike other footwork techniques in climbing that involve using the toes or the ball of the foot, edging relies on the support of the inside edge of the climbing shoe`s sole to hold the body`s weight.

The concept of edging is similar to walking on a tightrope, where the goal is to maintain balance and control. In climbing, edging allows climbers to navigate routes with small footholds that would otherwise be impossible to stand on. It also helps to reduce the strain on the arms and hands by giving climbers a solid foothold to push against and push their body up the wall.

The Importance of Edging in Climbing

Edging is an essential technique in climbing, especially for routes with a lot of small footholds. It is a skill that requires precision, balance, and control, making it a crucial foundation for other advanced climbing techniques such as crack climbing and slab climbing.

By mastering the art of edging, climbers can use their feet to support and push off from the wall, conserving energy and reducing the strain on the hands and arms. This technique also enables climbers to make more dynamic moves and reach holds that may seem out of reach.

Moreover, edging is a fundamental technique for maintaining balance and preventing falls while climbing. When placed correctly, the inside edge of the climbing shoe provides a solid and stable platform for the body to rest on, allowing climbers to make precise and controlled movements without slipping or falling.

How to Edge Properly

Edging is not an easy technique to master, and it takes practice to develop the necessary footwork skills. Here are some tips on how to edge properly in climbing:

  1. Select the Right Climbing Shoes - The type of climbing shoes you use can significantly affect your ability to edge. Look for shoes with a narrow last to fit into small footholds and a stiff sole for better support.
  2. Use the Inside Edge of the Shoe - To edge, place the inside edge of your shoe on a hold and apply pressure by pushing your body against the wall. The inside edge, which is closer to the big toe, offers more stability compared to the outer edge.
  3. Shift Your Weight - To maintain balance while edging, you need to shift your weight towards the inside edge of your foot. Keep your hips close to the wall and avoid leaning back away from it.
  4. Keep Your Foot Flexed - Flexing your foot while edging can help you grip onto the foothold better and prevent your foot from slipping off. Engage the muscles in your foot, and push down with your big toe.
  5. Relax Your Upper Body - Relaxing the muscles in your upper body can help you maintain control and reduce the strain on your arms. Keep your arms straight and use them only for balance.

Common Mistakes When Edging

As with any technique in climbing, proper edging skills take time and practice to develop. Here are some common mistakes climbers make when edging:

  1. Placing the Weight on the Toes - Putting too much weight on the toes while edging can cause your feet to slip off the foothold. Instead, keep your weight on the inside edge of your foot to maximize stability.
  2. Leaning Back - Leaning back away from the wall while edging can throw you off balance and make it difficult to maintain control. Keep your hips close to the wall and avoid leaning back.
  3. Poor Foot Placement - Placing your foot on the wrong part of the foothold can prevent you from creating enough friction to stay on the hold. Make sure to place your feet in the center of the foothold, where the surface is usually rougher.
  4. Not Keeping the Foot Flexed - Keeping your foot flexed while edging is crucial as it helps you grip onto the foothold better and prevents your foot from slipping off.

Conclusion

Edging is a fundamental skill in rock climbing that requires precision, balance, and control. By mastering this technique, climbers can tackle challenging routes with small footholds and maintain proper footwork while ascending. It takes practice and patience to develop the necessary edging skills, but once mastered, it can significantly improve a climber`s performance and help them reach new heights.

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